Hiking down the Pali inside Hawaii Volcanoes National Park

By Yvonne Baur

Down the Pali, Along the Shore

After a prolonged ankle injury, I finally felt comfortable enough exploring the Kaʻu Desert below Hilina Pali again. I always enjoyed the hike down the Pali to Kaʻaha Point and beyond; the vast expanse of scenery unfolding is simply beyond words. I was yearning to go on a trip to the coastal backcountry; it has been a long time.

Going down the Pali was not easy; much of the trail consisted of loose lava rubble and steep switchbacks. In addition, the grasses were pretty overgrown, and it was often impossible to see loose rocks on the trail.

The coastal backcountry is a special place. Hot, windy, and no shade. The few trees in this hostile area were mostly dead, the bleached-out dead branches standing like skeletal sentinels braving the winds. Shade is sparse to non-existent, and the whipping wind can be so strong that it literally lets you lose your balance. It is dry out there. Very dry, desert dry. Enough water is absolutely essential.

I truly love the area with its harsh environment. The crashing waves along the shore create a stark contrast to the almost lifeless area with dried grasses, old lava flows, and a sun so hot that it shoots heat arrows into your back and tries to break you. This place is no place for the unprepared; it is a place for adventures.

I really enjoy going there, even though the 1,600-foot climb back to the top of the Pali is cruel and drains me of all my energy. But looking back to the place where I have been along the coastline, I would do it again without any hesitation.

The trail begins at a shaded picnic shelter with tables and restrooms, overlooking the Pacific Ocean inside Hawaiʻi Volcanoes National Park.

Hiking along the rugged Pali trail, with the vast, lava-covered coastline stretching out to meet the ocean under a clear blue sky.

As I hike down the Pali with the lava-covered coastline ahead, there is a lot of loose rubble on the trail.

Vast views of Kaʻaha Point, where the rugged terrain meets the deep blue ocean under a serene, cloudy sky.

The view from the location where I just descended the Pali

Ahu marked the trail, which was often non-existent and completely overgrown. Without the ahu, it would be tough to figure out where to go

A bleached-out dead tree stands like a sentinel in the distance

Hummocky lava landscape

A closer look of Kaʻaha Point

Pali Pano

Sea arches along the Hawaii coastline

One of the many sea arches I encountered

One of the many lava tubes along the way

What a wonderful hike inside Volcanoes National Park!