Some hikes leave you with incredible views. Others stay with you because of how they make you feel.

The descent below Hilina Pali into the Kaʻū Desert is one of those places. Here, ancient lava flows, rugged cliffs, relentless trade winds, and the Pacific Ocean come together to create one of the most remote landscapes in Hawaiʻi Volcanoes National Park.

It isn't an easy hike. The terrain demands preparation, patience, and a healthy respect for the environment. Yet for those willing to make the journey, the reward is an unforgettable stretch of Hawaiʻi's wild coastline.

In this personal story, guide Yvonne Baur returns to one of her favorite hikes after recovering from an ankle injury.

Along the way, she reflects on the challenges of the trail, the beauty of the volcanic coastline, and why this remarkable place continues to call her back.

Returning to the Kaʻū Coast

After a prolonged ankle injury, I finally felt ready to return to the Kaʻū Desert below Hilina Pali.

I've always loved hiking down the Pali to Kaʻaha Point and beyond. Watching the landscape gradually unfold beneath you is something that's difficult to put into words.

After so much time away, I had been looking forward to another trip into the coastal backcountry.

The descent reminded me that this trail demands your full attention.

Much of the route was covered in loose lava rubble and steep switchbacks. In many places, tall grasses had grown over the trail, hiding unstable rocks beneath them.

Every step required a little extra care, especially after being away from the trail for so long.

Despite the challenge, the views only became more rewarding as I continued toward the coast.

The trail begins at a shaded picnic shelter with tables and restrooms, overlooking the Pacific Ocean inside Hawaiʻi Volcanoes National Park.

Hiking along the rugged Pali trail, with the vast, lava-covered coastline stretching out to meet the ocean under a clear blue sky.

Descending Hilina Pali into the Kaʻū Desert, where sweeping coastal views and rugged volcanic terrain stretch toward the Pacific Ocean.

Life Along the Coast

The coastal backcountry is a special place.

It's hot, windy, and almost completely without shade. The few trees that survive here are mostly dead, their pale branches standing like silent sentinels against the relentless trade winds.

On some days, the wind is strong enough to throw you off balance. The sun reflects off the dark lava, making the heat feel even more intense.

It is dry out here. Very dry.

Carrying enough water isn't just a good idea, it's essential.

As I continued toward the coast, I was reminded why this landscape has always fascinated me.

The pounding waves along the shoreline create a striking contrast with the dry grasses, weathered lava flows, and rugged volcanic terrain.

It's a harsh environment, but that's exactly what makes it so memorable.

Vast views of Kaʻaha Point, where the rugged terrain meets the deep blue ocean under a serene, cloudy sky.

The steep slopes of Hilina Pali reveal layers of volcanic rock and loose lava, making the descent as challenging as it is rewarding.

Ahu marked the trail, which was often non-existent and completely overgrown. Without the ahu, it would be tough to figure out where to go

Why I Keep Coming Back?

I truly love this place because of its harshness.

The crashing waves along the shoreline create a striking contrast with the dry grasses, ancient lava flows, and the relentless sun beating down from above.

It feels raw, untamed, and completely removed from the busier parts of the park.

This isn't a place for the unprepared.

It's a place for adventure.

For another personal story from one of Hawaiʻi Island’s most demanding routes, read Jennifer’s Waimanu Valley hike

The hike back to the top of Hilina Pali is always the hardest part. Climbing nearly 1,600 feet after spending the day exploring the coastline leaves me completely drained.

But every time I stop, turn around, and look back at where I've been, I know I'd do it all over again without hesitation.

Ancient hummocky lava creates a rugged landscape shaped by centuries of volcanic activity.

A closer look of Kaʻaha Point

Along the Shore

The farther I walked, the more the landscape revealed itself.

Every turn brought something different, from weathered lava formations and rugged coastal cliffs to sea arches carved by centuries of pounding surf.

To see how one Kīlauea eruption built and buried an entirely different part of the park, read how Maunaulu was formed

Some stretches felt completely untouched, where the only sounds were the wind and the waves breaking against the shoreline.

It was impossible to hurry through a place like this. Every stop revealed another detail worth noticing.

A bleached-out dead tree stands like a sentinel in the distance

Sea arches along the Hawaii coastline

One of the many sea arches I encountered

One of the many lava tubes along the way

Looking Back

Every time I visit this part of Hawaiʻi Volcanoes National Park, I'm reminded why I keep coming back.

The trail is demanding, the climb back to the top is exhausting, and the conditions can be unforgiving. Yet that's exactly what makes this place so memorable.

Some hikes are measured by the distance you cover.

What a wonderful hike inside Volcanoes National Park!

Others are remembered for the places they leave in your mind long after you've returned home.

For me, the coastline below Hilina Pali will always be one of them.

You do not have to descend Hilina Pali to experience Hawaiʻi Volcanoes National Park on foot. Compare our guided volcano hikes to find a small-group or private experience that fits your time, interests, and comfort level.