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TRAIL JOURNAL

Waimanu Valley: A Hidden Gem of Challenge and Beauty in Hawaii

Jennifer Bell, Founder & Certified Interpretive Guide

Jennifer Bell

Founder & Certified Interpretive Guide

Published

September 4, 2024

  • Sep 4, 2024
  • 6 min read

Updated: Aug 4

Waimanu Valley beckons to those who seek both challenge and beauty, a true gem hidden within Hawaii's rugged landscape, well worth every ounce of effort required to reach it.


A visit here promises not only a test of endurance but also unforgettable moments wrapped in nature's splendor.


For nature lovers and hiking enthusiasts, Waimanu Valley is nothing short of paradise.


Remote black-sand beach beneath a steep green sea cliff in Waimanu Valley, Hawaiʻi.
Wainamu Beach

With lush greenery, cascading waterfalls, and rivers teeming with freshwater shrimp and fish, the valley offers an enchanting experience. Stunning ocean views serve as a captivating backdrop, inviting adventurers to hit the trail together!


The valley features nine campsites along the beach, which can be reserved through the state DLNR website. Keep in mind that you must go with a Hawaii resident to access them.


The Journey Into Waimanu Valley


I had the pleasure of exploring this beautiful area with my dear friend Maria Jampolsky and my son Cameron.


Currently, access to Waimanu Valley is restricted to Big Island residents and tour companies with 4WD vehicles, meaning pedestrians are not permitted.


We opted for a ride with Waipio Valley Shuttle, paying $30 for transportation down to the trailhead in one of their tour vans.


Three backpackers smiling at the Waimanu Valley trailhead before beginning their hike.
Maria, Cameron and myself with backpacks on and ready to start our hike

We were fortunate to have a delightful local woman drive us back up afterward.


Important access note: Waipiʻo Valley Road access rules and trail conditions can change. The July 2026 county rule continues the pedestrian prohibition and allows only limited vehicular-access exceptions.



Misty green cliffs and distant waterfalls rising above the floor of Waimanu Valley.
Waimanu Vally feels like something out of jurastic park

How the Valleys Were Formed?


This region of the Big Island is characterized by its series of valleys, running from Waipio north and west to Pololu.


The large valleys include Waipio, Waimanu, Honopue, Honokane Nui and Iki, and Pololu.


Each valley was formed through a combination of volcanic faulting and subsequent stream erosion during a time when sea levels were about 1,000 feet lower than they are today.


Sunlit Waimanu Valley floor surrounded by steep green cliffs beneath a blue sky.

The flat valley floors we see now were formed after sea levels rose.


Both Waipio and Waimanu valleys historically supported large populations of Hawaiians, serving as vital sites for the cultivation of taro (kalo, Colocasia).


Poi, made from the root of this plant, was the starch staple of the Hawaiian diet, and during severe droughts, these valleys often proved to be the only places where this important crop would thrive.


Evidence of ancient Hawaiian occupation is abundant in Waimanu Valley.



Topographic map showing the Muliwai Trail between Waipiʻo and Waimanu valleys.
Topographic map showing the Muliwai Trail between Waipiʻo and Waimanu valleys.

What to Expect on the Muliwai Trail?


Prepare for a strenuous trek, as this 15.3-mile round-trip hike is often referred to as a “knee pounder.”


The trail features two steep climbs and descents: a challenging 1,200-foot ascent in less than a mile on the first stretch known as the Z Trail, followed by a 1,300-foot descent into Waimanu Valley.


Stacked stones on Waimanu’s rocky beach beneath a steep coastal cliff.
Stacked stones on Waimanu’s rocky beach beneath a steep coastal cliff.

Cameron Hiking in the Waimanu Valley
Cameron Hiking in the Waimanu Valley

Expect to navigate a winding path that undulates through 12 smaller gulches filled with non-native vegetation.


Much of the ridge-top area was planted with introduced tree species such as Ironwood and Eucalyptus during the 1930s.


Jennifer and Cameron with backpackers hiking through a wooded section of the Muliwai Trail.
Jennifer and Cameron with backpackers hiking through a wooded section of the Muliwai Trail.

However, along the upper Waimanu rim, the trail passes through a section of native 'ohi'a-kopiko-lama (Metrosideros - Psychotria - Diospyros) forest, where the understory supports a few hapu'u (tree ferns, Cibotium) and oha'wai (Clermontia).


Young hāpuʻu tree fern fronds curled before unfolding in the native forest.
Young hāpuʻu tree fern fronds curled before unfolding in the native forest.

This area of the Big Island receives over 100 inches of rain annually, leading to regular flash floods that can make stream crossings potentially fatal.


Use extreme caution when hiking in wet weather. Footing can be slippery, and rocks may become dislodged from slopes above the trail.


High winds often cause trees and branches to fall on the trail and in the campsites, while high surf can occasionally flood the campgrounds.


Small waterfall flowing into a shaded pool beside the Muliwai Trail.
Small waterfall flowing into a shaded pool beside the Muliwai Trail.

Always check local weather forecasts before embarking on your trip.


As you traverse the trail, you'll encounter a total of 13 stream crossings, most of which are straightforward stepovers. However, remember that conditions can change dramatically with heavy rains.


Two backpackers approaching Waimanu’s black-sand beach beneath a coastal cliff.
Two backpackers approaching Waimanu’s black-sand beach beneath a coastal cliff.

What I Packed for Waimanu Valley?


Preparing for your hike in Waimanu Valley is essential, as the right gear can greatly influence your experience, turning it into an unforgettable adventure rather than a challenging ordeal.


Jennifer and her Son Cameron standing on the green floor of Waimanu Valley with waterfalls behind them.
Jennifer and her Son Cameron standing on the green floor of Waimanu Valley with waterfalls behind them.

  • Backpack: I brought my trusty old Arc'teryx pack, which has served me well for over 4,000 miles!


This bag has taken me everywhere, from my days as a hiking guide in Yellowstone National Park to various trips in Arizona and Hawaii.


While the straps show some wear with tape holding together the tears from extensive use, it still provides excellent support with no rips.


I appreciate its two compartments and the zipper that extends all the way down the trunk, making access easy. There are also straps for trekking poles or skis.


My only wish is for front pockets on the waist straps, but overall, it's a fantastic backpack.


Orange and gray backpacking tents set beneath trees at a Waimanu Valley campsite.
Orange and gray backpacking tents set beneath trees at a Waimanu Valley campsite.

  • Tent: I tried out a Tipi tent for the first time, and unfortunately, it didn't meet my expectations.


I found it small and awkward to sleep in, and setting it up was quite challenging.

On the other hand, Maria had a great tent, though a bit on the heavier side. It worked perfectly for her, and she bought it off Amazon.



Two hikers smiling inside their tent during an overnight Waimanu Valley trip.



Hiker standing on Waimanu’s rocky black-sand beach with the coastal cliff behind them.

Preparing for your hike in Waimanu Valley is essential, as the right gear can greatly influence your experience, turning it into an unforgettable adventure rather than a challenging ordeal.


Orange Garmin inReach Mini satellite communicator used for backcountry navigation.

 


With this gear in tow, I feel prepared for the adventure ahead!

 


Rope stretched across the stream crossing near the Waimanu Valley campground.
Rope stretched across the stream crossing near the Waimanu Valley campground.

Before the campground, you will cross a river. A rope is placed at this river crossing.


Navigating the Waimanu Valley Hike: Essential River Crossing Tips


Your trek starts with the challenge of crossing the Waipio River, so it's crucial to be mindful of the tide and plan your crossing during low tide for a safer experience.


Here are some key tips to help you navigate this part of the trail effectively:


  1. Stay Grounded: Always maintain at least two points of contact with the riverbed. This could mean keeping both feet on the ground or one foot and a trekking pole.

  2. Go with the Flow: Instead of battling the current, move diagonally downstream to make your crossing easier and safer.

  3. Cross as a Team: If the water is deep or flowing swiftly, it's best to cross with a group. Form a human chain by holding onto each other's pack straps or linking arms, with the strongest person positioned slightly upstream to help break the current.

  4. Use Supportive Tools: Find a sturdy pole or branch that reaches shoulder height to aid in balance. Lean into it while side-shuffling across the river to maintain stability.

  5. Safety First: Wearing a personal flotation device (PFD) is one of the most effective ways to minimize the risk of drowning during your crossing.

  6. Know When to Retreat: Always have a backup plan in case the crossing becomes too challenging. Be prepared to head back to shore if necessary.

  7. Dress Wisely: Opt for fitted clothing rather than loose or baggy gear, as this can help prevent snagging or hindrance while crossing.

  8. Don’t Go Solo: Unless you’re highly experienced, it’s wise to avoid crossing a river alone. Wait for fellow hikers to join you, seek out a bridge, or turn back if needed.



Coconut palms framing a distant waterfall on the green walls of Waimanu Valley.
Coconut palms framing a distant waterfall on the green walls of Waimanu Valley.

Why Waimanu Valley Is Worth the Effort?


Waimanu Valley beckons to those who seek both challenge and beauty, a true gem hidden within Hawaii's rugged landscape, well worth every ounce of effort required to reach it.


View of the steep Waimanu coastline and blue Pacific Ocean from the Muliwai Trail.
View of the steep Waimanu coastline and blue Pacific Ocean from the Muliwai Trail.

A visit here promises not only a test of endurance but also unforgettable moments wrapped in nature's splendor.


Jennifer and Maria Jampolsky standing with trekking poles on the Waimanu Valley floor beneath misty cliffs.
Jennifer and Maria Jampolsky standing with trekking poles on the Waimanu Valley floor beneath misty cliffs.

Special mahalo to Maria Jampolsky, and to Cameron Wysocky, contributing photographer.


 
 
 

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